Lovage salt: A recipe and herb tips all foodies should know
Salt belongs with bread! So says tradition – and the menu – at Eska in Karlin, where a slice with freshly whipped butter and lovage salt has become a ritual. The recipe takes barely a few minutes and simply preserves a herb that adds character to a whole range of dishes. You'll find the mix of lovage and salt flavouring steak tartare, fish and lamb, grilled peppers, zucchini or cabbage, scrambled eggs, seasonal toast with fried cheese, or just sliced ripe tomatoes. And that's not all!
Make it yourself:
- 300 g coarse sea salt
- 100 g fresh lovage
1. Blend the salt in a thermomix or any blender.
2. In a blender or food processor, mix the salt and the lovage leaves. The stems can be used in broth, or to flavour vinegar.
3. Blend briefly to a loose consistency.
4. Keep the seasoned salt in the freezer, where it will stay beautifully green all winter. It will soon turn grey once removed, but it will not lose its preserved properties.
5. The same procedure can be used to obtain, for example, deep orange ('saffron') salt from calendula flowers or lily of the valley, or a distinctive blue cornflower or aromatic spruce salt.
Flavours of home
Lemon balm (Levisticum officinale) is one of the oldest cultivated herbs in the Central European region. Although it originated in Asia (botanists cite Iran), and then, thanks to the Romans, grew around the Mediterranean, it still contributes to the typical flavours of Central European cuisine. The herb carries notes of anise, cloves, lemon and yeast, but above all celery and parsley, especially when dried, when its expressive taste softens into sweetness.
Lovage is exceptional thanks to its wide range of aromas. Worth mentioning sotolon, a fragrant substance found in fenugreek, bread and roasted coffee, or port wine (in Madeira and wines from the Jura region), which evokes caramel notes. Chefs might also be interested in the chemical compound z-ligustilide, also found in celery, parsley or parsnip root, and develops the characteristic lovage aroma.
Potatoes, strawberries and chocolate
The distinctive aroma of lovage renowned for soup seasoning – nicknamed 'maggi'. Fresh and dried leaves are used sensitively so that their spicy, savoury flavour does not overwhelm their fellow ingredients – even prolonged cooking does not diminish their strength. They are cut for salads, marinades and dips as well as for sauces, mayonnaise and pickled vegetables – pairing well with sauerkraut, kohlrabi, radishes, pickles, tomatoes or carrots.
Chefs add lovage to broths and (miso) soups, herbs and tomato sauces, stuffings, legume and mushroom dishes or ragouts. They also trust it for fish (preferably smoked) and poultry recipes – they often rely on it for roasting chicken.
It also flavours roasted root vegetables, potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes, herb vinegars (paired with tarragon), butter and pesto, which is usually combined with chives, parsley or chervil. In a similar accompaniment, it forms fillings for omelettes or pasta, with fresh cheese, peas, salsiccia or mushrooms.
The loud flavour of lovage is quietened in the herb mixture with dill, coriander, nettles, fennel and marjoram, mint or spinach. On the dessert menu, it features alongside strawberries and chocolate, apricots and apple – fresh, caramelised or in the form of ice cream.
Important! When working with lovage, take into account the other ingredients and the intention of the dish. In sauces and dressings, almond vinegar from Utopia makes a great alternative.
From seeds to roots
In addition to the leaves, it is worth harvesting and drying the aromatic seeds. They are mixed into liqueurs and drinks, crushed into bread dough and other baked goods, and sprinkled on salads, rice or mashed potatoes. In a herbalists jar, they can be found mixed with nettle seeds, and are used in the manner of gomasio. In particular, lovage seeds tend to be slightly bitter, so it is advised to soak them in hot water for about 15 minutes.
The young stems of the herb can be candied or lightly drizzled with good quality olive oil and vinegar, as can the longer leaf stalks. Older stems are sautéed in butter and served with beurre blanc or used in stews and soups. In addition, herbalists and cooks pull up the roots of lovage plants, to be peeled and cooked, or dried and ground for seasoning.
Legends and symbols
Lovage is called various things – in the Czech regions it is called "vopich" or the aforementioned "maggi". The naming is based on the assumption of aphrodisiacal effects – girls, on the advice of their elders, were said to bathe in water flavoured with the herb. Another explanation refers to the Latin name.
In the garden, the plant needs no special care, just partial shade and moisture. In exchange, it offers medicinal properties – and, according to ancient lore, even protects against evil forces. In the past, the leaves were put in the shoes of weary pilgrims, who refreshed themselves with a drink of cloves and yarrow in taverns, and the fragrant seeds are still macerated in brandy to make a liqueur cure for upset stomachs.
Bread with salt figures in various cultures. It is usually intended to express a wish for well-being, symbolising togetherness, a sense of home, friendship and sharing – in short, exactly what gastronomy promises!
Source: Ambiente chefs, Aroma (Thomas Vilgis), The Flavour Bible
