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Where to get the best meat in Prague? Butcher František Kšána shares his secrets

April 9, 2024
Photo: Jan Zima
Any good cook knows that the quality of your meat matters – but how do you recognise a quality butcher? You ask the experts. František Kšána, head butcher at Amaso, is here to share his knowledge – plus, his tried-and-tested tips for where to get quality meat in the city.

Butchery and charcuterie: two words that trigger the Pavlovian reflex in meat lovers. But finding a quality butchers shop that will reliably offer you first-class meat is a task worthy of a master (butcher).

It’s in the detail

According to František , who you might know from the store Naše maso, first impressions are crucial. "When I step inside a butcher shop, I look at the details, for example, whether they have a clean door or a nice window display. The way I’m greeted is also important for me, along with the butcher’s interest in recommendation and advice," he explains. 

According to him, the persona of the butcher is at the heart of a successful butcher shop. As well as communication skills, it’s essential for a butchers to understand their customers, to be able to offer them the most suitable option and to know, for example, where the meat comes from. "And if you are not sure what to cook from a certain cut, a good butcher must advise you," emphasises Fanda Kšána, for whom butchering is a mission.

Follow your nose

There’s no doubt that the role of the butcher is crucial when purchasing meat – but what else distinguishes a quality butcher shop from an average one? "It must smell good in the store. Ideally in such a way that you immediately begin to salivate and get a taste for meat," explains Kšána, adding that if the shop doesn't smell good, insufficient hygiene may be to blame.

"It is important to observe hygiene in any shop, but this is doubly true in a butcher shop. You must constantly clean the counters and maintain order. Otherwise, things start to stink," he says flatly.

You get what you pay for

Just like butchers, prices differ. While somewhere you can get a pork shoulder on sale for just 80 CZK, elsewhere you will pay several hundred more. "The price of meat depends on the quality of the product. So the higher the price, the better quality the meat should be," says František Kšána. Always take that with a pinch of salt, however – some butchers are above all excellent businessmen. "Without blinking an eye, they will sell you meat whose quality does not match the price," he points out.

If you want to buy truly good – and therefore pricier – meat, but your wallet isn’t quite ready for it at the moment, adopt the motto of Naše maso as your own. "We want people to appreciate meat, not to eat it every day and to buy a high-quality piece, maybe only once or twice a week," explains František.

At the same time, don't expect a wide range of chicken in Naše maso, as is customary in Czech butcher shops. "We follow what we consider to be the best, and this is also reflected in the ratio of individual types of meat. You will find a lot of beef, a lot of pork and only a little chicken here," František says.

A final piece of advice? "In my opinion, a good butcher's shop is the one where you stop by a couple of times, and each time you get not only excellent meat, but great advice too," sums up František Kšána.

František Kšána on his favourite butchers:

Naše maso

The best, in my opinion. We mainly offer beef and pork, the meats which have always been eaten in the Czech Republic. We try to raise animals to live happy lives and then kill them properly. We take pride in the way we handle meat and prepare it for sale – and since we also cook with it in the shop, you can eat with us, or pick up something to take home.

Kantýna

A butcher shop and a large restaurant found in the premises of a former bank, this is a beautiful collaboration between Ambiente’s chefs, meat from Amaso, and some great pilsner beer. I like to call it the big Naše maso – it’s the first place I’ll take friends and visitors from abroad.

Řeznictví Branická (Branická butcher shop)

For me, this is the epitome of a family business that works beautifully. They have a small counter, and the guy who runs it knows his stuff.

The Real Meat Society

Paul and Michaela Day are behind The Real Meat Society. It’s a unique place that has its own distinct style – stop by and see for yourself.

Masology

This company was founded by my classmate Aleš Peterka, who previously held a high corporate position – I’ll admit he surprised me a bit when he came to me and said he wanted to open a butcher shop, but he does it well! The place has a modern Czech-British style and elegance – Aleš even wears a tie to work.

Maso Křížíkova

Great guys right next to the subway. They’ve been in the business for a long time, and they’re always innovating to be in tune with the influences on the market. They’re the kind of people who will never say something’s not possible – capable, flexible and able to source anything you might need.

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