Vegetables, meat and dairy: Here are 13 Czech farmers you should know

Dinner in a jar

Open, pour, heat, and serve. At Akonzerva in Jenč, just outside Prague, they follow recipes from Ambiente restaurants to prepare popular sauces, fill them into jars, and sterilise. They're the kind of thing that comes in handy at your summerhouse, or your apartment – anywhere with a stove. You'll be able to serve goulash soup, or classic svíčková just like that.

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Ambiente's creative chefs ventured out on a five-day tour of the Czech Republic, with a simple goal. To visit existing restaurant suppliers, but also establish new collaborations, learn more about organic farming, and discover the biggest obstacles between the field and the kitchen. Here's what they found.

1. Pork, beef and geese from the farm in Trneny Újezd

The journey began southwest of Prague, on Holovský Farm. The owner, Radim Holovský, farms 300 hectares of land and raises Přeštice Black-Pied pigs, cattle and sheep, geese, ducks and chickens. During the visit, the risks involved in free range pig farming were discussed, along with what a dignified life for the animal means, as well as a dignified death. There was talk about how irreplaceable it is to work with your hands and what has made meat a cheap commodity. We agreed that change for the better requires enlightened farmers and consumers who know quality and the true cost of food.

2. Přeštice Black-Pied pig from Mladotice

Next stop was Mladotice, where Jaroslav Bejda was waiting for us. The local agricultural cooperative breeds Přeštice Black-Pied pigs, and maintains a valuable genetic resource. For the same reason, Jaroslav acquired Wallachian sheep and golden speckled hens.

This is a reference to the essence of agriculture. The original varieties and breeds were not previously used for yield but for the livelihood of man, who today often recklessly breeds plants and animals for maximum yield and profit. Breeding in intensive and industrial agriculture has had a particularly negative impact. Criticism of imports, which disadvantage honest domestic producers, has reinforced our belief that promoting localism makes sense – both ecologically and economically.

3. Mustard from the Nový Dvůr Monastery

Nový Dvůr Monastery produces exceptionally good mustard. The Trappist Order came from France to western Bohemia in 2002 and built a place for prayer and agricultural activities – the monks grow vegetables and run a production facility where they continuously ripen nine types of French mustard. During the tasting, we inquired about Trappist recipes and practices, and while shopping, we also indulged in chocolate from the sisters at the Naší Paní nad Vltavou Convent.

4. Vegetables and flowers from the Svobodné Hory farm

In the south of Bohemia live Kuba and Terka, a music producer and an architect, who after returning from abroad founded Svobodné Hory farm, growing vegetables and flowers. Learning from the surrounding nature, they return diversity and balance to the land, finding a way to sustain a small farm for the long term.

They sell most of their harvest in the form of crates as part of KPZ (community supported agriculture), some of which they offer to restaurants who understand that cooperation requires flexibility on both sides. Fennel, zucchini and green beans have just ripened in the garden – and we haven't eaten better! Bitter lettuces were blooming, which the farmer would take to the compost heap, while the chef would toss them in a pan with butter and a pinch of salt. All good things start with collaboration!

5. Karol Lesný from the Gratzen Mountains

The onion blossoms planted by Karol Lesný taste divine. In the Gratzen Mountains he grows vegetables, legumes, herbs, flowers for teas and cosmetics and collects wild berries. A walk among the beds showed us how conditions can differ in fields just a few dozen kilometres apart, what climate change is teaching farmers and how climatic fluctuations affect a seasonal menu. Our takeaway from the conversation was a message to chefs: "Don't call me wanting something. Ask me what I'm harvesting." Then, in the drying room, we were charmed by the marjoram and caught up in gratitude for farmers who don't give up.

6. Vinegar and cider from Utopia

We move from southern Bohemia to Vysočina, for apple cider vinegar and cider from Utopia. Eva and Ivo Laurin are an example of how producers are inspired by gastronomy, and vice versa. To welcome us, they opened cider with raspberries which was created at the request of sommelier Zdeněk Oudes of La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise.

In the restaurant Essens, they mix a drink made from vincentka mineral water and apple cider vinegar with wild cherry and elderflower, as suggested by Eva. We saw a cider house, a vinegar house and a product created from nature. A frost caught the region's fruit this year, meaning there won't even be a surplus of apples – though thankfully, the right bacteria and yeast abound! Finally, we grilled some sausages over the fire – because cooperation grows from good relationships, after all.

7. Pork and beef from Sasov Biofarm

"Ecology does not mean going back to the hoe," said Josef Sklenář, who leads Sasov Biofarm. For thirty years he's been combining traditional practices with innovation, whether it's his own technology for feed production, or the so-called family farming of ruminants, in which piglets stay with their mother for three months to build up immunity instead of being fed antibiotics as is done in conventional farming.

On the pasture, we saw different breeds of cattle including Czech Red, which belong among valuable genetic sources. We proceeded to the slaughterhouse and the processing plant, where a quarter of a buffalo and a 12-year-old cow were hanging. In the processing plant, a recipe for ham was being tested, as a future product for sale and a tribute to an animal that lived with and for man.

8. Trout from the Skalní mlýn Fishery

The next excursion was to the fishery at Skalní mlýn. We were interested in the trout , which breeds in clear water with a temperature of about 13 °C in the Moravský kras Protected Landscape Area. The quality of the fish is also enhanced by a recirculation system and water aeration equipment, not to mention the activities of the fishermen who ensure complete closed farming from reproduction to fish processing – the reason for which the fish has earned a combined trademark.

The fishery is inhabited by rainbow trout, brook trout and sometimes brown trout. The manager, Jiří Honzák, told us about the hatchery, the feed, the seasonality, until we decided to plan a trip to see the fish farmers and freshwater fish breeders.

9. Beef and lamb from Rudimov Farm

At Farm Rudimov, we toasted with slivovitz with Honza Žák, who farms organically using elements of of regenerative agriculture. The landscape in the foothills of the White Carpathians is grazed by Aberdeen Angus cattle, Romney Marsh sheep and goats. The intention? To cultivate a piece of land and raise pedigree animals for breeders. Over time, they added a slaughterhouse and the Maso z lúkyprocessing plant. All the farm needs is an end customer.

"I knew how to milk a cow and mow a meadow, but I had no idea how to approach people from the gastronomy industry," admits Honza, adding that he was afraid of the reaction of chefs for a long time. The quality of the meat from year-round grazing animals naturally changes with the seasons. After a tour of the pastures, there was nothing to do but buy "from the yard", and say thank you. For the hospitality, and creating another place where they work with their head alongside their heart.

10. Heritage fruit varieties from Ovocná školka

Not far from Rudimov is Bojkovice, and Radim Pesek's Ovocná školka nursery which grows old and newer varieties of fruit – up to thirty thousand trees and bushes a year. Right on arrival we got freshly picked plums of the relatively common variety Čačanská lepotice, and then all that was left to do was enjoy!

We admired apple trees, pears, plums, mulberries, medlar and also quinces, honeysuckles and dogwoods, native wild shrubs. Among the indigenous plants we discovered persimmon, kiwi, magnolia berry or Japanese cucumber. The latter, however, is not for sale – nor is the knowledge and craft of the fruit grower, which is perhaps in no danger of being forgotten.

11. Wine from Ševčík and Stávek

Winemakers are farmers too! Ota Ševčík a Richard Stávek let us explore their cellars and vineyard, giving a taste of different wines and different approaches – it confirmed that each bottle reflects not only the terroir, but also the personality of the winemaker. With a glass in hand, we debated the changes in the weather, about vine management and complicated varieties, healthy soil, healthy grapes and this year's harvest, which will take place earlier than last year.

12. Gala Winery

Jaromír Gala again talked mainly about his project to restore the landscape in the Pálava region, which is unique for its history, location and species diversity. In the next few years, he and his wife are planning to plant orchards, drive cattle into the meadows and graze the vineyards, process crops and wild produce, and combine winemaking with gastronomy. Wine is to be enjoyed with food – only then does it become culture.

13. Cows, milk and cheese at Bláto Farm

On the way home, we deliberately turned off onto a dead end road, which had a happy ending – Bláto Farm. Here, we met artist and renaissance man Pavel Šich, who, with his family and his own hands has built more than a farm. In Uhlířské Janovice he breeds Brown Swiss and Jersey cows, runs a dairy, a shop, a bistro and accommodation, and moreover has mastered the craft of cheese making.

Experience from abroad and years of practice are written into the rounds of ripened cheese. So that Pavel doesn't get bored, he continues to paint and is active in an associationwhich organises concerts, open-air cinemas and excursions for children – proving that agriculture shapes not only the landscape, but also our society.