Fine dining has a firm place in Czech gastronomy: In conversation with chef Martin Štangl
A tasting dinner at Štangl
Martin, it's been a year and a bit since Štangl opened. How are you feeling about it so far?
Beginnings are never easy, but to be honest, we were hoping ours would be a little easier. We were counting on the fact that we have experience with Eska, we're leaning on its foundations, so people will register the new venture faster and understand our concept. We were wrong. Even though the restaurant sits directly above Eska, there are still diners who have no idea about Štangl. Personally, I expected the menu to be easier to work with as well. I've always found coming up with à la carte items more challenging than preparing small dishes and tasting menus, but in practice, it's different.
How challenging is the tasting format for you?
The menu has to meet certain parameters and changes take a lot of time. When we sold out of a dish on the menu at Eska, we cooked something else the next day. We didn't look too far ahead. The creative process at Štangl is different. The food is cooked several times before it goes on the menu. Once we're happy with it in the kitchen, the waiters and sommeliers taste it so they can suggest food pairings with wine or non-alcoholic beverages. Then they test to see if the combination works and fits the context of the whole dinner. This process requires a lot of planning, whether it's buying the ingredients or making the drinks, which are often fermented.
What are you struggling with so far?
The biggest stumbling block for us is sourcing. We put a lot of care into each new course, so we want to keep it on the menu for maybe two months, but the farmers work to a different rhythm. In the main season, most of their crops ripen at once and some crops are only available for a few weeks. In addition, at Štangl we process a smaller volume of ingredients overall, although we do quite a bit of canning, fermenting, drying or freezing of stock. Orders from farmers are increasing thanks to Eska, but even that has changed and the breakfast-focused bakery no longer consumes as many vegetables as it used to. We are therefore trying to re-adjust our cooperation to suit both the farmers and the restaurant, and we are aware of how much our demand affects supply.
What's the biggest demand at the moment?
I wish I could find more farmers who specialise in a few top-quality ingredients. An example is Mr. Hecht with tomatoes and peppers. For years, we have found that farms offer the same range of products and then we don't know what to do with the next crate of chard. This is certainly not to criticise the farmers – it's more of an incentive for us chefs. We can give feedback to farmers and encourage them to grow different indigenous varieties, or produce that did not grow here before and has potential in the context of climate change. This is exactly the kind of topic we are interested in at Štangl. We want to cook with local ingredients, reflecting the world around us, and to do that we need great producers.
What else do you need to make this vision come true?
At the moment, we need first and foremost to endure, to keep up the standards we set, and to do our job 100%, even when the restaurant is not full and there are evenings when we only serve a few tables. We knew that in the first phase we would be seating fewer guests and that this was not unusual. On the other hand, I'm glad that Ambiente is thinking about the economics of businesses – to be truly sustainable, they have to earn their keep. That's why we're now looking at ways to make ourselves more visible.
What path have you chosen?
We've started to organise events above and beyond our normal operations. For example, we cooked the Kulinář fish dinner for loyal Ambiente guests, and we're doing pop-ups with chefs from home and abroad. In April, there was a dinner with Yiannis Mexis from London's Hide restaurant, and at the end of September we are planning a pop-up with Kristina Nemčková, who has worked at Geranium in Denmark, among others. It's a chance to attract new guests, but at the same time we're expanding our knowledge and getting out of our routine. Of course, a Michelin star would also help the restaurant, as it did at La Degustation or Eska, which received a Bib award a year and a half after opening.
Štangl has arrived on the scene at a time when there is a lively debate about stars and the future of fine dining. What's your take on it?
We did some research last year and agreed that venturing into a concept like Štangl made sense. There are still not many businesses with tasting menus in the Czech Republic, but there are more and more people who like gastronomy and go to restaurants for a cultural experience. I think this is the role of fine dining, which emphasises the cultural dimension of food. I believe the fact that we see food as an experience is a testament to the maturity of our society. Fine dining restaurants have a place in Czech gastronomy, and they are often pioneers. In some ways they can be more radical, inspiring the industry, but also educating guests. And that's exactly what we at Štangl are supposed to do.
What other advantages do you attribute to a tasting restaurant?
I especially appreciate the friendliness towards nature. We know the number of reservations and portions, so we can keep waste to a minimum. A big advantage for us is the connection with Eska, especially in terms of ingredients. I mentioned outlets for the farmers, but downstairs they can cook delicious food for the daily menu even with the surplus from our kitchen. This neighbourhood fine dining and bistro partly answers the previous question. You don't go for dinner at Štangl every week, that's what Eska is for. But both concepts are important because they show food in a different light.
How has the menu evolved to date?
From the beginning we were clear about what we were going to cook. My reps Omar Sakiqi and Roman Davidoff worked with me at Eska, where our idea for Štangl crystallised, so we aligned quickly. The menu is based on preparation, which is complex and lengthy, while the evening service needs to be as uncomplicated as possible, as does the result on the plate. Each course contains some kind of interesting element or unusual technique. In the kitchen we continue to use moulds, fermentation and play with the ageing of fish meat, its texture and flavour, for example. We draw on tradition, on what we ourselves like to eat or ate as children, but we look at the recipes from today's perspective. Roast pork comes with apple and cabbage, so we add a cider sauce and cabbage fermented with bread yeast.
Has your perspective on your role as chef and co-owner of the restaurant changed since last year?
It hasn't. I appreciate both roles, although I sometimes ask myself what I've gotten myself into. The restaurant bears my name, so I want to feel more pressure to get everything right. At the same time, I know it's healthy to hesitate sometimes. Insecurity drives us to improve, whereas sovereignty puts blinders on chefs so that sometimes they can't actually see their guests or colleagues. The responsibility of being a chef is a weight, but it's bearable because I have a team of people by my side who are persistent, not afraid to take risks and accept criticism. I'm proud of what we've accomplished together. Štangl is far from just me. No restaurant is built on one person.
