Yanka Baloh from Marie B: In Kiev, a woman in a professional kitchen is nothing special
Marie B – a relaxed restaurant without a menu
Here, head chef Jiří Šoura serves up a gastronomy experience like no other, combining traditional Czech cuisine, creativity, and quality ingredients. The Vin de Marie wine bar sits alongside the restaurant.
Yanka, although you are now sous chef at Maria B, your original profession is completely different - you studied medicine. What led you to gastronomy?
I've always enjoyed cooking, and when I had a free summer after my studies, I decided to apply to MasterChef, the amateur round. In Ukraine, professionals and amateurs compete separately.
You won. Was it a good start to your career?
The competition doesn't prepare you for the realities of the kitchen. When I moved from a small town to Kiev and started looking for a job, I found out that MasterChef means nothing at all. It was more like they were looking at me through their fingers, with a look "so what?". I was a star in the competition, but the reality was a huge stress for me, because I didn't know how things work in a professional kitchen. It was a real shock - I couldn't even chop an onion perfectly. But I'm stubborn and determined, so I learned everything quickly.
How did it go?
At that time, a restaurant by Israeli chef Meir Adeni opened in Kiev and I was accepted. I learned a lot of things there - cleanliness, kitchen basics and food service. This chef shaped my culinary self. I enjoyed the work because the kitchen was well-set processes, and it's high level, and I like that.. I gained the basics of management in other restaurants, one of which I have already become a chef.
But then came the war...
Yes, I had to leave Kiev. Part of winning MasterChef was the opportunity to study the famous Cordon Bleu cooking school in Paris. But I had to postpone my studies several times because travel was difficult during the pandemic. So I went to Paris only when the war forced me to leave Kiev. And since my mother has been living in the Czech Republic for many years, after graduating from culinary school I went to visit her.
Why did you choose La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise?
After seven weeks at the Cordon Bleu, I found that I desperately needed to work in a kitchen with excellent hygiene, order and system. And that's the level offered here, especially by the finedining restaurants. So I looked up Michelin-starred establishments. After an initial conversation with chef Oldrich Sahajdák, I decided on La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise.
How did the interview go? After all, you had only been in Prague for a short time.
My Czech was terrible. I prepared the beginning of the interview in advance with Google translator. I understood almost everything, but I had trouble speaking and responding. Oldrich, however, was very pleasant. As one of the few chefs I have ever interviewed with, he also talked about what he could offer me. Right from the start he clearly told me all the conditions, showed me the kitchen and the facilities. After the meeting, I I was immediately clear that I wanted to come in. Oldrich is a superhero and a mentor to me, he has trained many great chefs who now have their own successful businesses.
How do you remember your beginnings at La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise? Were you the only woman in the bunch?
Yes, I was. It's different than in Ukraine, where there are women are much more represented in professional kitchens. I certainly didn't feel like an exceptional cook there. In the Czech Republic, however, women are still in the minority in professional kitchens, especially in finedining restaurants. I couldn't even get a ladies' turtleneck here! The first months were hard. I didn't speak much Czech, which was limiting, and some of my colleagues didn't give me anything for free. I had to work harder than the others, but I managed. I worked mainly on sauces and side dishes. I enjoyed that because I think that I have a great sense of seasoning. Then I tried a position on meat, and that really pushed me professionally.
When was the time to move to Marie B?
Jirka Šoura became chef there, and we were given the choice of staying at La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise or going to Marie B. Half the team followed him. Jirka was great to work with and I tasted a couple of dishes with him before the opening that were being tested for Marie B. I loved it so much, and I decided to move into the new place with him. At that point I had been cooked for about four years.
How did you become sous chef?
When Jirka started a family, there was a need for two sous chefs and I was offered the position. I'm a natural and I like to be in charge, so I accepted the offer. It's been a very interesting experience so far. For example, I've already discovered that in a boss position, sometimes you can't avoid saying something more forcefully or even raising your voice. That was completely foreign to me before.
Would you like to run your own restaurant one day?
Of course, but I want it to be a good place, like our Marie B's. I've got a lot of learning to do.
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