Tomas Karpíšek: I am convinced that food will become more and more important
Tomáš, Ambiente has quite an elaborate education system. Why was the education centre at Národní 28 created?
I have been thinking about such a centre for a long time. Since the beginning of Ambiente, we have been educating ourselves in various ways and going abroad for inspiration. At first, it was mainly me and Olda Sahajdák, chef of La Degustation. Later, training took place in the then facilities in Haštalská street, or in rented kitchens. In the meantime, I visited the restaurant Astrid y Gastón in Peru, which also had a research kitchen space. Our creative chefs of the time, Jan Jelič, Honza Všetečka and Sláva Grigorik, saw such concepts during their internships, and they gave me the final impetus to open something similar together. It wasn't just about research. I wanted to create a platform where our people could learn and exchange experiences.
How did your plan evolve?
In 2019, before the pandemic broke out, we had already completed the plans and negotiated a plot of land in Holešovice. We called the concept RE (RE as a symbol of circulation, sustainability and return, ed.). It included a restaurant where pop-ups would test and present what creative chefs are doing. But Covid forced us to postpone the project indefinitely, and we restarted it when the situation had settled down. At that time, tourist-oriented businesses in the centre of Prague were going bankrupt, so suddenly space became available, which played into our hands. We were looking for the most accessible location. I found the rental for UM through an advertisement and the history of the building assured us that we were at the right address. Národní 28 used to be home to the famous U Choděrů restaurant.
UM has been open for over two years. How do you see it today?
We founded it as a centre for education and innovation, primarily for our employees. It was only when we opened that we realised what UM could bring to gastronomy and that it was a much bigger step than we thought. It soon became apparent that the project was closely linked to Ambiente's long-term mission, which we would share both internally, in our operations, and externally. This way we can cultivate the whole gastronomic environment! UM's activities have therefore expanded to include courses and pop-ups for the professional and general public. The latter then pass on what they learn from us - and thus help us to fulfil our mission. However, the way UM is today is only a starting point.
What is its goal?
That remains to be seen. This year, we need to focus on the interior and the overall ambiance to make UM feel welcoming, not only to employees but also to guests. Later on, perhaps in a few years, we will definitely be looking for another address. UM is not just a space, but a philosophy that can grow in all kinds of directions, whether it be its own publishing house or perhaps a gastronomy school.
Which activity do you think is the key?
As I mentioned, it's education. UM has a current team of creative chefs, among others, who have been given the role of facilitators. Their job is to educate themselves, gather knowledge in the world and bring it home so that others can be educated through it. We want to go back to our roots while innovating tradition, which involves constantly gathering knowledge and learning the old and the new. Based on this, we can define the framework of Central European cuisine, just as Nordic cuisine was defined years ago. That is our aim.
How does this definition come together?
One must immerse oneself in theory and history. Each of us already has a picture of Czech cuisine, we have been painting it since birth. We remember what we ate as children at home, at school, in restaurants, at our grandmother's or in the mountains. But to know the wider context and understand why this particular cuisine exists here, how culinary traditions in Central Europe intertwine and what milestones have influenced them, we need to read a lot, travel and talk to experts. It is UM that is the place for interdisciplinary collaboration and deeper research.
You yourself gained important experience and education in Austria, taking courses in Innsbruck, including a year's study as a dietary chef. What were the highlights of this?
I took a series of professional courses that specialised in the role of different positions in the kitchen, such as gardemanger, saucier, rôtisseur, entremétier or pâtissier. But classes dedicated to cooking techniques were not enough for me. So I enrolled in management courses, which taught me how to run a business and understand the complexity of gastronomy. I learned how to build and price menus, how to promote the food and the restaurant, how to build a team and formulate a mission... This is what I think students in culinary schools lack. Most young people don't see the hospitality industry as a whole after they graduate.
Can you think of a solution?
I don't know exactly what to call it, I'm not an educator. But I am a dad, so I notice what some schools are leading students to do. They're teaching them how to learn and prepare for fields that don't exist yet, and they don't require drilling specific information. Culinary education should be inspired by these current approaches. After all, it is not just a matter of a chef knowing procedures or recipes! It is also about understanding the industry and being able to succeed in it not only as a chef but also as an entrepreneur. On the other hand, a good chef has skills, an art that cannot be taught. It usually comes with age and wisdom.
Can you give specific examples?
Sure. For example, I'm pleased to meet such personalities as Martin Štangl from Štangl restaurant or Martin Matys from Brasileiro. Their presence adds value to the training and courses. People get to try out how to cook the perfect pasta or how to prepare a steak, but most importantly, they have the opportunity to hear unique stories and see gastronomy through the masters and their experiences.
How do you imagine UM in a hundred years?
Like the CIA (Culinary Institute of America) in the USA or the Robert Koch Institute in Germany. In short, as an institution that benefits society and helps Central Europe find the identity of national cuisines. I am convinced that food will become increasingly important. But my idea doesn't matter as much as the team of people around me. They are the carriers of the vision we are talking about here. They are stirring up what we ignited years ago, and more and more often I feel like I may be gradually moving away. But first, we need to set up a system by which we will pass UM on to our successors and future generations, so that its essence is preserved and it can thrive, even a hundred years after us.
