She studied journalism and wanted to catch bad guys. Now, she's an experienced bartender and lecturer. Meet Lucie Janečková
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Lucka, do you remember your first beer?
Probably not my very first, but I remember starting to discover and taste beer. If I looked back today, I'm ashamed of what I was able to drink back then. Even at the Tap School, I often admit to having (unfortunately) drunk beer through a straw, because back then young people said that it would "affect" you more. Back then, I certainly didn't care which brewery the beer came from, how it was poured, what it looked like, and it cost 25 crowns.
I had a big shock when I came to Lokál Hamburg in 2014 as a guest to greet František Šťástka, who had returned from Pub in New York. At that time I did not understand at all what the terms "hladinka, šnyt, or mlíko" meant. I was confused. František came and put a pint of "mlíko" in front of me and said: "Drink it in one. So I did. I remember I was amazed, the beer tasted different.
And then?
I said goodbye, and before I could walk to Florenc, which is a short walk, František called me to tell me to come back, that I had an interview. Since then, I worked there on the floor on a temporary basis. The part-time job, which was supposed to be just a summer job, stayed with me while I was in school, and after three quarters of the year, the manager, Martin Bušo, asked if I wanted to learn how to tap.
When did you know you were going to be a bartender?
I enjoyed beer from the very beginning, but training to be a bartender was challenging at first. I didn't understand why my beers didn't look the same, why the beer suddenly foamed and flowed differently than the day before. But I enjoyed it a lot. I also applied for sanitation exams and learned another bit of the job of a bartender. And at the same time, I resolved to finish school no matter what.
What did you study?
Journalism. I really went for it, but in the end I decided to stick with beer.
What else did you have to do to become "Mrs. Tap"?
I was very attracted to the Tap School, which was run by Lukáš Svoboda. Lukáš was, and still is, an icon. When he came to the pub, everyone had a natural respect for him and he soon became a legend. But at the same time, he was very nice. One day I emailed him and said I would love to meet him and help him with the Tap School. He wrote me back almost immediately. We met up, and I got a congratulations from him, because we had just managed to cross the thousand litres a day mark in Hamburk for the first time. I asked Lukáš what I could do to get him to take me on, and we finally agreed that I would take on the position of flying bartender.
So proactivity played a big part.
Lukáš said he was surprised, no one had ever written to him directly like that before. So yes, it definitely helped.
And the flying bartender position was invented just for you?
The position already existed. Luboš Dupak was the first one to hold it, but he had just left to become general manager at Lokál Dlouhááá.
Today you're in charge of young colleagues who want to become bartenders. What do you do for them?
Within the PIVO Institute, we take complete care of the beer in Lokál and other Ambiente businesses. We've evolved gradually and we're pushing the taproom craft as well. We are specific in that we have a precise and specific set of training for our tappers, their education and development. Our bartenders can participate in the Golden Tap competition and continue their education in sensory and sanitation. We also take care of some of the less visible, or let's say office stuff.
Who are you working with on the project?
I have two great partners in the field, Tomáš Krčmář and Martin Novopacki. Our other partner is Tereza Plášilová, who takes care of production. Tomáš and Martin spend a lot of time in the pubs, checking the taps, sanitation, helping our colleagues with the functioning and operation. I run the courses of the Tap School for the public and for our professionals, I guide guests through the Prague Beer Zoo, and I manage the functioning of the Institute.
So the PIVO Institute naturally grew out of the Tap School. Sounds like a transition from high school to college.
Lukáš Svoboda came up with the first public tapping school, which is why the course is still called the Lukáš Svoboda Tapping School, now in its twelfth year. And gradually other events, courses and other things have been added. I don't like the word, but we can also offer "beer catering", guests can rent a tap and a taproom from us for all kinds of events. We do a lot of beer catering, both in Lokál and throughout Ambiente, so it seemed logical to have these activities "under one roof". Perhaps we will eventually offer our services outside the Ambiente group as well. In short, we are developing.
What would the training look like if I wanted to become a bartender under your guidance without any experience? What would you teach me and what would you start with?
The new bartender training is currently led by Tomáš Krčmář, who is incredibly fun to work with. The training lasts on average three months and first you have to get to know the establishment you're joining. If you are joining the taproom from the floor of one of our restaurants, for example, the transition is a bit smoother.
If you're coming from the outside, we'll want you to spend some time on the floor, learning how to brew beers, numbering tables, getting to know your colleagues, getting to know the regulars. Then you'll meet Tomáš, and he'll give you a training notebook to learn from and take notes in. You go behind the bar together and go over the basics.
Then you have lunch with me and Martin Novopacki so you can get to know the whole training team. We've got to teach you how to open the tap, close the tap, break the tanks, get the tapping right so the beer is perfect. We hold your hand, we help you, we tell you about the brewing process and its history.
This year, you and your colleagues went all the way to the United States. What was your mission in going there and what did you bring back?
With my colleagues from Pult, Lokál and Dva Kohouti, we flew there with the aim of showing carefully treated beer in a pint. As I used to say at the Tap School, no brewer wants to brew a crappy beer, that would be against himself, but once beer leaves the brewery gates it has a long journey ahead of it, which also has to be tended to. A lot of key elements have to be looked after. We, as the Czech Republic are quite unique in how we tap beer, how we care for it, and how much we are able to drink in a year. Brewer Lukáš Tomsa brewed the beer in America a month in advance. When we all arrived in Vegas, we took over the Beer Zombies pub for the day and showed the Americans what beer tastes like when it's made, and tapped, by Czechs.
What does that mean?
A perfectly clean glass, and a single draught. We also showed them all the classic Czech pours. I think it worked, and the guests there were thrilled. We also took away a lot of inspiration, the event was part of the huge CBC beer conference. We learned new technologies and saw great packaging materials that will be useful in the future.
Is American beer much different to Czech beer?
Americans are not afraid to experiment, especially with combinations. Sometimes you see something on the menu and you think, wow, that can't even be good. I'll never forget the sour beer that my colleague Tomáš ordered. It had kiwi, pineapple and marshmallow flavours.
And did it taste good?
No, it was crazy for me. But I like the lagers there. In the States, they're trying very hard to get closer to Czech lager, which is good. Typical American lagers are weaker, we Czechs are used to a fuller body. The Craft House offered Bohemian Lager, a Czech lager, and even had it on tap from a Baroko tap. I was very pleasantly surprised.
They say Americans like everything cold, preferably on the rocks. Is that true of beer?
Beer's a degree warmer. At Lokál we do it our own way, and the beer is no more than three and a half degrees Celsius because we want the guests to enjoy every last sip. But generally, Czech breweries recommend a temperature between five and seven degrees. In America, the beers were around four to six degrees. And in every supermarket you buy all the beer already chilled, I'd like that very much here.
Back to the Czech Republic. Do you see the people who revolve around beer, the beer drinkers and the tappers, as a strong community?
Absolutely. We all know each other. And now I'm not just talking about the people from Lokál and Ambiente, but nationwide. Sooner or later, you'll meet people who are serious about beer and the craft of bartending at events. And maybe I'm wrong, but I feel like there's not as much competition among us tappers as there is in other industries. On the contrary, when a new pub opens up, where they're tapping well-treated beer, we're all happy that there's one more place to go for a proper draught. That's our aim.
Where do you look for inspiration?
I follow breweries a lot. Both on social media and in person, when I'm touring them with Maxim about beer, or with my colleague Terka Pospíšilová from Pult as part of my role on the tasting board and getting to know how they work. And then I have a few people that I really enjoy. Namely Beno Jeřábek or Richard Máša. I love learning about beer, the beer world is always moving forward and I know very well that I still have gaps in beer styles. I used to be very lager-oriented, and it's only in the last few years that I've been trying to explore other styles. Terka and her colleague Magda Hopp, who knows so much about beer, are helping me a lot.
I am driven by the knowledge that I am in charge of beer care not only in Lokál, where we tap lager, but also in concepts like Pult or Dva Kohouti. I have to keep up with places that don't just serve typical Czech lager.
Which breweries are among your favourites, apart from the Pilsner one?
Definitely Obora, Sibeeria, Falcon, Antoš and the Moravian Wild Creatures. There are incredibly skilled people everywhere.
There are more and more small or gradually growing breweries in our country. What do you think it is?
Where there's demand, there's supply. I read recently that beer consumption in the Czech Republic is falling and that young people don't want to drink it. It may sound strange, but I don't think so. When I look in the courtyard of Dva Kohouti, I see all young people enjoying a beer. Rather, I think people are starting to be open to other styles of beer and don't want to drink just Czech lager anymore.
What about favourite pubs? Where do you like to go besides Lokál?
I like to go to all the pubs in our Prague Beer Zoo. So from the Black Ox, to the Hippo, to the Golden Elephant and I love going to the Golden Tiger. Among my favourites are also Bredovský dvůr, U Kruhu and I also like the beer at Na Čepu pub near the Estates Theatre.
And what do you drink when you don't drink lager?
At the moment I'm trying to get to know different styles like APA and IPA. I still need some time, I can't say that I like it. But I really enjoy sours and lambics, in short beers with fruitier notes and spontaneous fermentation.
If you weren't a bartender, what would you be?
I'd be a great fighter for justice. When I was 15, I wanted to go to URNA (Rapid Response Unit of the National Police), I wanted to arrest criminals and bad guys. Then I thought of becoming a lawyer specialising in criminal law and dreamed a lot about investigative journalism. But thanks to a summer job, I ended up working at a beer store and in a few days I'll celebrate ten years at Ambiente. And I wouldn't change it for the world.
