Czech horseradish as a culinary treasure. How is it grown and what can it do in the kitchen?
"We were introduced to horseradish cultivation by the owner of a farm shop from Louny, who sells vegetables from nearby farmers. He once complained that he couldn't find Czech horseradish. I didn't give up and started calling growers," says farmer Luboš Žďárský from Farm Úlovice.
"I found out that many of them were no longer really into horseradish. This is a crop that requires mainly hands and a hoe, especially in organic cultivation, and there are no people for that today," adds Luboš, who this year planted horseradish on less than a hectare of arable land near fields of poppies, spelt and rye.
An ancient annual
In Úlovice, the horseradish is grown as an annual plant, although it is a perennial. 'In autumn we spread the manure from our cattle with a spreader, then plough the field and leave it to rest until spring,' says Luboš, to loosen up the soil. We then use a special planter to plant the prepared horseradish seedlings." These are are placed in the ground flat, so that they will grow sprouts from which future seedlings will be selected after the harvest.
900 hours per year
Horseradish has been known in Central Europe since the Middle Ages, brought with it by Slavic traders from eastern and southern Europe, where it probably arrived from western Asia. It has been cultivated in the Czech region since the 12th century. "Some say it is a weed, but if you want to grow good horseradish, you have to take care of it," says Luboš. He spends 900 hours a year in the field. The horseradish needs to be hoed, weeded and ploughed. Contributing to its success is homemade manure, but without moisture, the farmer can do nothing.
"If it doesn't rain, nothing grows. The same thing happens in sandy soil, horseradish shoots multiply uncontrollably and become too thin. In clay soil, on the other hand, the horseradish is at risk of stunting. In short, horseradish suits lighter soils," summarises Luboš.
Leaves as signals
They inform farmers during the growing season leaves, which signal the condition of the crop, lack of irrigation or the presence of pests such as the horseradish thrips. The insects attack the plant and stunt its growth. In addition, the leaves take away the root the essential oils with which the above-ground plant communicates and partly protects itself from pests. "The root does not have the same vigour in summer. It is only in autumn, when the leaves have died back, faded and frosted over, that the roots take on the right sharpness," explains Luboš.
The leaves are in demand at the markets, as they come in handy in salads or for drying. "In Eastern Europe, the leaves are added to pickle brine in which fresh horseradish pieces are used, just as horseradish is traditionally grated into pickled cabbage. The antibacterial effects of leaves and roots have also been used for centuries in the preservation of various fruits," says Luboš.
Harvest and cut
In October, they hope it doesn't rain too much and that they can get out into the fields with their equipment. In autumn, the horseradish is ploughed out of the soil using a special ploughing machine. "It's important to be gentle so that the root doesn't get damaged or broken during the ploughing," Luboš stresses. Freshly harvested horseradish is cut straight back and stripped of its shoots. "We have to also cut off the rest of the leaves as they tend to rot. We store the horseradish in the cellar, where where it will keep in good condition until the next harvest."
Keep it cool!
Horseradish is best stored in a cool, moist place to prevent drying out. "We recommend that people at the markets store the horseradish they buy in a cool place. Ideally, it should be wrapped in a dampened paper or cotton towel and left in the fridge," Luboš advises. Before going to the markets in Prague, he sorts and washes each horseradish in a vegetable washing machine. The large roots are for sale, the weaker or broken ones are processed by the Žďárskis into horseradish paste.
"In addition to the paste, we try drying horseradish for spices a pressing horseradish 'must' which we send to a brewery," Luboš says, assessing the situation in the supply chain which complicates the vegetable's journey to the shelves. When horseradish is stored at low temperatures, it has to be washed, packed and distributed to the wholesaler. Only then does it reach the retail market. Moreover, most of it is imported from foreign growers. I take the horseradish out of the cellar on Friday and by Saturday morning it's on sale."
A pinch for proof of quality
"Horseradish is not supposed to be very sharp, it should just have a nice bite. It gets into your nose and eyes and clears your airways, so you can better perceive the taste and aroma of the food," says Luboš, who decided years ago to remind people of the uniqueness of Czech horseradish. It was still an important export item during the First Republic.
The typical character of horseradish becomes apparent when the plant cells are disturbed, releasing volatile fragrant essential oils and enzymes that break down the mustard glycoside sinigrin into sugar, but also into a substance called allyl isothiocyanate. The latter triggers tears when we grate horseradish, while the decomposed sinigrin develops sweetness. Other sulphur substances also contribute to the horseradish flavour, while the polyphenol compound quercetin causes the slightly bitter tone.
Horseradish, ham and apricots
Horseradish was originally known as a medicinal herb, but it did not acquire a culinary role as an aromatic spice until the 16th century, first in Germany and Denmark as part of fish sauces. It is said that around 1640 its career moved west - the British still make horseradish sauce with roast beef. In the Czech environment, horseradish is grated into both the sauce and served with roasted or boiled meat and sausages, among other things because it aids digestion.
Prague ham with with creamy horseradish made of lightly salted grated horseradish with a fluffy creamy espuma. At Naše maso they slice Prague ham into a sandwich with horseradish. The sour cream is simply mixed with fresh horseradish and combined with the ham to mimic the legendary ham roll. In Čestr, horseradish is combined with honey ham or even steak tartarewhich is flavoured with horseradish juice, while at U Kalendů this white treasure is grated on grilled pork ears.
Horseradish is commonly paired with pickles and fresh salad dressing, but also with tomatoes, beetroot, celery and apple. You are probably familiar with apple horseradish chili, which cooks innovate by pouring thin slices of apple into the horseradish juice. Apple cider vinegar with horseradish enhances dressings, sauces, pork chops and carpaccio or broccoli florets.
Horseradish appears also alongside smoked meat accompanied by mustard. The combination of ham, horseradish, mustard and apricots works reliably, while roasted carrots or corn benefit from an emulsion of butter, mustard and horseradish. By the way, the horseradish flavour dissolves in the fat which is why horseradish is used in cream sauces. Its pungency in recipes is usually tempered by egg yolk or butter.
Sweetened horseradish is good with fatty (smoked) fish. Try roast cabbage with horseradish sauce and anchovies, smoked carp with horseradish mayonnaise or the Alsatian whitefish, which chef Martin Štangl marinates in a mixture of boiled barley groats, salt and water, serving with an essence of a strong broth of Prague ham and fish garum, with grated horseradish and brook trout.
Grated horseradish flavours salads (from sauerkraut or beetroot), spreads and fresh cheeses, scrambled eggs or eggs in glass or broth - an example is tafelspitz. Similarly, mashed potatoes with (smoked) brown butter or mushroom gnocchi. However, horseradish is only added to hot dishes at the very end so that it doesn't lose its aroma and other benefits. Czech horseradish sauce and Austrian Semmelkren sauce are thickened with bread, broth and cream, and the heat of cooking takes away the hotness of the horseradish, which of course not overcooked, otherwise it would turn bitter.
The aroma and sharpness of the horseradish are easily preserved with lemon juice or wine vinegar, where the low pH environment slows down oxidation. The Norwegians, for example, eat a pepperotsaus sauce of horseradish, sugar and vinegar with their fish, which holds the pungent note and fleeting aroma of the root.
Something extra:
People used to grow horseradish in their gardens. The village of Malín near Kutná Hora was particularly famous, and its inhabitants owned horseradish fields, which were worth a house price.
Once upon a time, the harvested horseradish was stored in a hole in the garden, or sometimes the farmer would bury it in the sand. The horseradish crop is capable of to survive the winter without being harvested in the field, the roots remaining tender and aromatic.
Czech cuisine knows only one horseradish, and that is the horseradish of the peasant, Armoracia rusticana in Latin. The mother cuttings from which the root grows are deposited in the soil, and tended, cut and hoed during the year. When it is time to harvest, the farmer strips the root down to the mother and cuts it. The mother, which must be at least 30 to 40 cm deep, is permanently is left in the ground.
Horseradish is known to act as a natural antibiotic. The root contains twice as much vitamin C as lemon, but also B vitamins, minerals, flavonoids, mustard glycosides, calcium, magnesium, and other substances that activate the secretion of digestive enzymes. Mustard essential oils cleanse the respiratory organs and stomach and dissolve mucus in the body. Horseradish vinegar can relieve headaches, fresh horseradish is applied to the skin for insect bites, and some herbalists consider it an aphrodisiac.
Horseradish leaves provide substances called phytoncides with preservative properties. Our ancestors noticed this, so they wrapped butter in them to keep it from spitting.
It's worth tasting the spicy flowers of wild horseradish.
Horseradish has made its way into the kitchen as mustard. Both plants once represented the less available pepper. Did you know that the most common pepper variety, Piper nigrum, was not domesticated in Europe until the early 20th century?
Source: Ambiente Cooks, Aroma (Thomas Vilgis), Herbalist (Lesley Bremness)
